Saturday, May 20, 2006

Malawi- An amazing country with a huge heart

Good evening everyone from Zanzibar

It has been a few days since Ive updated my blog and my life has been anything but quiet.
After leaving Lilongwe (capital of Malawi) we made the 8 hour journey to Chintheche Beach camp. We supposed to have been arriving at 6 but due to visa issues with a couple of the guys from Europe we were postponed in Lilongwe. Then we had the issue of a police stop (there are so many police stops here!) at 9pm, just a few minutes from our rest camp and the police ordered all of us off the truck and searched our bags and then our truck. I think he had a few too many drinks which was a worry when his police mate had the worlds longest rifle in his hand. We passed the test and were allowed to proceed to camp. The campsite is right on the banks of Lake Malawi (fresh water lake that covers 20% of Malawi) . The water is beautiful and warm with breathtaking views of the mountain ranges in the background.
The next day we had a village walk in the neighbouring village. Our guide took us to a traditional Malawian house and this showed us quite early how friendly and lovely the local people are in Malawi. To me it was the first time that I felt like I was in the real 'Africa', people living the traditional way with a indomitable spirit. Afterwards he took us to the local boarding school where the girls were so much fun they loved having us there and like most Africans love having their photo taken. We then went into a classroom of 50+ students and I asked them if they could sing and dance for me (the teacher part of me coming out again) they did and in return they wanted me to dance. (Coachy told the teacher that I was a good dancer) After much bugging from the students I finally gave in and gave them one of my signature moves. (sober by the way) This was all captured on video by one of the girls of our tour group and has now been shown to everyone else.
That afternoon a few of us had a game of soccer on the beach of Lake Malawi with a few locals. Ive forgotten how pathetic I am at soccer!
Lake Malawi is just phenomenal, a real surprise packet for me.
After soccer the boys from Europe wanted to go and watch the FA Cup final so we organised with a few of local lads outside our campsite to take us somewhere to watch it. We found the place after walking through long grass and crossing over river beds on logs.. it was an adventure and the local lads were very funny!
It was the end of another great day and tomorrow we headed further up the lake to Chitimba a quiet town in Malawi with a great vibe.
Next morning I went on a three hour village walk with a guide. We went to the local orphange that looks after 15 orphans without parents. (Due to HIV rate of 40% sadly there are many children in Malawi that are without parents) We then headed to the local school !! Wow, this was an experience there are over 1000 students with 10 teachers to look after them all. The students learn on the concrete floor in a room that makes learning so difficult especially as one of the classes I went in had over 100 students in it. Unfortunately, the Government have limited funds for schools due to their current economic situation. It was a real eye opening experience. After the school we visited the so called 'witchdoctor'. All I will say on this matter is- they saw us coming. A guy dressed in a nurses uniform with shell shakers on his body. It was a croc but worth every cent - a good laugh. Then we headed to the local medical centre in town, one poor doctors assistant (he wasnt even a doctor) saw 100+ patients a day (the queue outside was huge) . Oh yeah one aspect about Citimba there is no power in this town. People survive on generators, paraffin or nothing at all for the vast majority. We then returned to our campsite for a bit to eat and a swim in the lake. (Our campsite here is so idylli, a magic setting right on the foreshore of Lake Malawi)
After lunch a few of us hitted the markets that were directly behind our campsite gates. ANy market in Africa is an experience but also expect to bargin hard cause you can get some great deals. (Im too soft at bargaining so I always get one of the girls to bargin on my behalf - especially for beads )
After 2 hours I walked away with a chair and a bowl and wrist bands and beads of course. There were a few of us that bought chairs and tablesand we all had the problem how are we going to send them back to our respective countries. As there was no room on the truck we had to send them today. So one of the local guys offered to walk us to the local post office(an hour walk carrying chairs on our back s and even on our heads which the locals loved!)
We finally made it to the local post office where I think we were the only customers they guys had for the day - even the week. After bartering on exchange rates we managed to organise the postage, I felt at one stage half the town were in the post office amused by us! We then asked the guy how long to the parcels arrive - oh about 9 months or so.. so maybe for CHristmas.
Uncle Vinne (our post office helper) and a student of the local high school wanted us to visit his high school on the way back. The school began in 1999 and has only 2 classroomsfor Forms 1 & 2. The other two classrooms are half built and have been sitting idle for the last 2 years due to funding ceasing. IT is a sad situation as students when they finish Form 2 have to travel 10-20 kms to the next school and they want to stay in town. I think the school is a wonderful chance for a school in Australia to form an alliance/sister school to help them out. The two boys that showed us around were very well educated and disappointed that they couldnt continue on at their school. We met the Principal of the school on the way back to the campsite, and he was a great guy so I got their address and details to see what I could do when I get back to Australia. The people in this town are so friendly and are always wavign and saying hello. After dinner I arranged with my new mates in town to take us to a local shebeen(drinking hall) . A few of us from our group were up for the challenge and took us on an adventure to find the shebeen to get a taste of Malawian life. After enjoying a couple warm beers (remember no power in this town) we headed back to the campsite. Oh yeah the beers were 70 Kwatchas each but we were charged 75 K , 5K was to pay for the paraffin to have a little light while we drank our beers.
The guys that took us are so cool and Ive promised them that I will be back to this idyllic town in the near future. They have so much energy and are so funny- it was a great night out!
It was the end of another corker of a day, I have really fallen for this country. There is a real sense of optimism about the future which I love to see.
The next day we had another early start and said goodbye to Malawi and welcomed Tanzania.
10 hours later we arrived in our campsite and yeah it does rain in Africa and heavy!
IM now in Zanzibar and having a great time. Got heaps of great stories which I will share in my next blog.
I have 500+ photos so I am to put some up in the near future.
Post a comment and stay in touch.
I might even put on the video.. actually come to think of it probably not!
Troy

3 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Troy,

Sounds like you are having amazing times, which is great!!! I leave in 3 weeks so will see you in about 7 is that right???

Until then, take care...

Case

6:28 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Was it the ATM dance? There was a guy in Melbourne who used to do that at A Bar Called Barrys. He loved Barrys. Oh by the way, Barry sends his love and says he misses you and your golden locks.

8:21 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Greets to the webmaster of this wonderful site. Keep working. Thank you.
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8:25 PM  

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