Africa to Europe

Tuesday, May 30, 2006

Massai Mara and the end of the tour

Good morning everyone

Where was I .................... after leaving the Serengetti and the Crater we proceeded to Nairobi for the end of our tour for a few people so we went to Carnivous which is 20 mins out of town. Carnivous has been rated among the best restaurants in the world due to being able to taste the best game meat Africa has to offer and it is unlimited. There were 30 of us that went and they continually come up and carve any type of meat in front of you to taste. Anyone that knows me knows that I have an large appetite so I find it hard to say no so I kept saying yes and yes for plate after plate. It was delicious, especially the crocodile.. That night I said goodbye to a few people that werent doing the optional Masai Mara 3 day safari trip. We had a really tight group so it was sad to say goodbye to them. You spend 24/7 with these people, it actually felt like BB after a while cause all you see most of the way is your tour group so its really important to get along otherwise it can be a long tour!
Im sure I will then again down the track as it is very easy to build life long friendships with people when you spend so much time with them.
The next morning we were going to Masai Mara which is located 260 kms from Nairobi but was going to take the whole day due to the poor state of the roads. (And I mean poor!)
Well, after eating way too much food I hoped on a new truck with a few new people who were just starting their tour. Not long into the trip things started turning nasty and I mean nasty. I had to stop the truck numerous times and I had a very high temperature but very cold. You guessed it I had food poisioning (for the second time in 4 weeks!!) But the last time was a walk in the park to this, Matt (our tour leader) at one point was worried I might have had malaria. (But dont stress Mum I dont!!) That day was the longest in my life and I was so glad to get to our campsite in the evening. (Immodium is my new best friend)
The next day we had a full day of game viewing in Masai Mara and I was still feeling sick so I didnt really enjoy it and I must admit after the Serengetti and Crater it felt a little second rate.
The following day we left the Masai Mara for Nairobi (that was only a few of us as most of them are now going to the gorillas in Uganda) . Thankfully I was feeling a lot better and slowly getting back to the way I used to be. I said goodbye to the rest of the tour group, but Im sure I will see them soon (especially the guys from Europe!)
My 27 day tour was officially over and I had an absolute ball that I would recommend to anyone to do it as it is the easiest way to see East Africa. The only negative were the long days on the truck travelling and the two bouts of food poisioning.
Im now in Nairobi where I am doing two weeks volunteer work with Oasis Africa in the largest township in Nairobi. I will be teaching English and Sport. Will keep you posted on how it all goes.

Some random pics along the way










Some more pics














Saturday, May 27, 2006

Serengetti and the Ngorongoro Crater

Hello

Well after experiencing beautiful Zanzibar the next big adventure was the one that Ive been looking forward to doing in years the Serengetti and Crater. The majority of docos you watch on tv about African safaris are set in these majestic lands.
The first point of call was the Ngorongoro (Swahili for cow bell - as they say its like one!!) Crater which is a 600km2 hole in the ground that came from a volcano thousands of years ago and inside leaves an amazing ecosystem that has all the big 5 with a large lake in the middle of it. This just blew me away, I wasnt sure what to expect from the Crater but wow all those long days on the truck were worth it when we saw it from the edge. The desent down the crater was another rocky affair but nothing could ruin the magic of the Crater. I took more photos than I could care to imagine but I dont think they would do justice, I just applaud you to come here and experience it for yourself. All of us on our safari 4WDs were awestruck by the crater, seeing lions, buffalo, wilderbeast, zebra etc. so close to you leaving in this ecosystem was mind blowing. The animals can leave (though it would be difficult) but most stay cause there are good rains with plenty of food. It was the highlight of my trip so far going into the crater. We camped on the edge of the Crater (which is 2500 m above sea level and bloody cold!!!) The $30 jacket I bought from Kmart before i left has been paid back many times over!
The next morning we headed into the Serengetti or the 'Get' as we were calling it.. Just imagine open plans low grass and an abundance of wildlife.. that is the Serengetti. It is a photographers' dream cause you can get so close to the animals. We arrived just before the migration takes place but there were signs like the wilderbeast and zebra moving in one gigantic line. The zebras have a good sense of eyesight so the wilderbeast tag along for the wild. The highlights of my time in the Serengetti where :
- the start of the migration
-seeing the leopard if it was only briefly and I missed out on a photo
-having lions so close to you, they really are the king of the jungle!
-the beautiful open plans of the Serengetti that made game spotting very easy
-Seeing everything besides the Rhino.... lets hope the Masai Mara has some rhinos..

All in all I absolutely loved the Serengetti and Ngorongoro Crater, I could spin to you for hours what it was like but I think you need to experience it yourself. (Though you will need to have a few dollars put aside cause its not cheap!! but its worth every cent)
We arrived back at the campsite in Arusha after a crazy 3 days away so a few of us let our hair down at the bar which turned a little messy! $2 shots should be outlawed! This was the last major part of the tour as the next few days we were headed for Nairobi before some of us go to the Masai Mara on a three day safari.

Hope everyone is well

Cheers
Troy

Zanzibar - An island paradise

Hello from Africa....

Well it has been a while since I last wrote in my blog due to being so busy cruising through beautiful Africa.
After leaving Malawi we arrived (via Dar es Salaam) at Zanzibar. An island just off Tanzania that I knew nothing about but everyone from out tour group have been raving about for ages so I was really looking forward to getting there. (Especially as we have spent the best part of the last 3 days in a truck and I think everyone has had enough of my lame jokes!) To get to Zanzibar we took the ferry from Dar (an hour late like most transport in Africa) which is 3 hours on the Sprinter. Pulling into the port at Zanzibar, the first thing I noticed was the heat - it was so nice to have the African sun back as we've had some wet days in Africa. (who says it never rains in Africa!) After getting our gear we were driven to our hostel for the night which was in the capital Stonetown. Just to give you a brief background, Zanzibar was known as the spice and slave gateway to Africa and is steeped in history with the arabic and english influence before indepedence in 1964. The main language in Zanzibar is Arabic and Swahili and the arabic influence is shown by the architecture, dress and the main religion (Islamic) in Zanzibar.
After arriving in the late afternoon a few of us had a look around Stonetown before going to the local bar for a beverage or two. After a few cheeky afternoon drinks we went down to the seafood market, which is on the wharf in Stonetown. All seafood you can ever imagine, caught fresh that day and cook in front of you and yeah its very cheap - even for a Mzungo!! But be warned drugs have infiltrated Zanzibar and there are a few homeless people down there that can give you a hard time (Especially one bloke with a knife!! - but hey its all part of the experience) After dinner we went back to the local bar for a few more drinks which ended up to me being on the dance floor dancing to the Lion King song by myself.. but hey I did get a large round of applause from everyone that was there.. maybe they were just keen to have me off the dancefloor. A local guy that was dancing (and was amazing!) invited me up on the dancefloor . The other guys said I held my own with the best dance in Zanzibar (that was his title) but I couldnt move my hips like he could. Anyway, it was the end of another terrific day. The next day a few of us hired mopeds (scooters) to cruise around the island (it is around 80kms long by 40 kms wide) We decided to head north as we were told the beaches were just amazing and after an interesting journey. The drivers in Zanzibar are crazy but you learn very fast. The north didnt disappoint it was just postcard perfect, white sandy beaches aqua coloured waters and yeah its hot here!! Got to love a winter tan!! :) The water is super warm as well, so here we are having a few bevvies watching the sun go down in the water.. about as good as like can get. Apparently, this is a real gold mine for investors - might have to save my cash so I can buy a block of apartments here! The next day a couple of us cruised down the east coast of Zanzibar on our mopeds.. wow this was an experienc! The roads going to the north were average at best well the roads on the east side were horrific and sometimes just stopped for no apparent reason! We were crusing down a sandy pathway when it didnt go anywhere so a local told us to take it on the beach which we thought was illegal but hey should give it a go.. well that was fun until we were pulled over by another local that told us that its a $150 USD fine if you get caught cruising down the beach on your moped, thankfully he took us back to where the track was.. After stopping for lunch and mangos.. Zanzibar has the most fertile land, the grow practically everrything and anything. The mangos are just amazing, I think I polished off about 10 along the way as they are so cheap! We arrived back at our hotel in Stonetown around 5 which finished a 7 hour day on our moped on the bumpiest roads ever seen! I think I will send them my chiro bill!
The next day we did our spice tour, which involved a tour of Stonetown. Their most famous (or was I should say) was Freddie Mercury and his name is everywhere. We then did a tour of the spice farms which grows everything from cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, cloves, vanilla, lemon grass etc. etc. just go through your spice rack and it is grown in Zanzibar. Oh yeah, I had my first ever coconut which tasted divine, the milk is so cold and refreshing.
We left the spice tour to board the ferry back to Dar before we head to the Serengetti and Crater. Something that I have been looking forward to for years!!

Signiing off
Troy

Friday, May 26, 2006

And more

Thursday, May 25, 2006

Some more pics









Some photos











Hey here are some pics from my trip

Cheers
Troy

Saturday, May 20, 2006

Malawi- An amazing country with a huge heart

Good evening everyone from Zanzibar

It has been a few days since Ive updated my blog and my life has been anything but quiet.
After leaving Lilongwe (capital of Malawi) we made the 8 hour journey to Chintheche Beach camp. We supposed to have been arriving at 6 but due to visa issues with a couple of the guys from Europe we were postponed in Lilongwe. Then we had the issue of a police stop (there are so many police stops here!) at 9pm, just a few minutes from our rest camp and the police ordered all of us off the truck and searched our bags and then our truck. I think he had a few too many drinks which was a worry when his police mate had the worlds longest rifle in his hand. We passed the test and were allowed to proceed to camp. The campsite is right on the banks of Lake Malawi (fresh water lake that covers 20% of Malawi) . The water is beautiful and warm with breathtaking views of the mountain ranges in the background.
The next day we had a village walk in the neighbouring village. Our guide took us to a traditional Malawian house and this showed us quite early how friendly and lovely the local people are in Malawi. To me it was the first time that I felt like I was in the real 'Africa', people living the traditional way with a indomitable spirit. Afterwards he took us to the local boarding school where the girls were so much fun they loved having us there and like most Africans love having their photo taken. We then went into a classroom of 50+ students and I asked them if they could sing and dance for me (the teacher part of me coming out again) they did and in return they wanted me to dance. (Coachy told the teacher that I was a good dancer) After much bugging from the students I finally gave in and gave them one of my signature moves. (sober by the way) This was all captured on video by one of the girls of our tour group and has now been shown to everyone else.
That afternoon a few of us had a game of soccer on the beach of Lake Malawi with a few locals. Ive forgotten how pathetic I am at soccer!
Lake Malawi is just phenomenal, a real surprise packet for me.
After soccer the boys from Europe wanted to go and watch the FA Cup final so we organised with a few of local lads outside our campsite to take us somewhere to watch it. We found the place after walking through long grass and crossing over river beds on logs.. it was an adventure and the local lads were very funny!
It was the end of another great day and tomorrow we headed further up the lake to Chitimba a quiet town in Malawi with a great vibe.
Next morning I went on a three hour village walk with a guide. We went to the local orphange that looks after 15 orphans without parents. (Due to HIV rate of 40% sadly there are many children in Malawi that are without parents) We then headed to the local school !! Wow, this was an experience there are over 1000 students with 10 teachers to look after them all. The students learn on the concrete floor in a room that makes learning so difficult especially as one of the classes I went in had over 100 students in it. Unfortunately, the Government have limited funds for schools due to their current economic situation. It was a real eye opening experience. After the school we visited the so called 'witchdoctor'. All I will say on this matter is- they saw us coming. A guy dressed in a nurses uniform with shell shakers on his body. It was a croc but worth every cent - a good laugh. Then we headed to the local medical centre in town, one poor doctors assistant (he wasnt even a doctor) saw 100+ patients a day (the queue outside was huge) . Oh yeah one aspect about Citimba there is no power in this town. People survive on generators, paraffin or nothing at all for the vast majority. We then returned to our campsite for a bit to eat and a swim in the lake. (Our campsite here is so idylli, a magic setting right on the foreshore of Lake Malawi)
After lunch a few of us hitted the markets that were directly behind our campsite gates. ANy market in Africa is an experience but also expect to bargin hard cause you can get some great deals. (Im too soft at bargaining so I always get one of the girls to bargin on my behalf - especially for beads )
After 2 hours I walked away with a chair and a bowl and wrist bands and beads of course. There were a few of us that bought chairs and tablesand we all had the problem how are we going to send them back to our respective countries. As there was no room on the truck we had to send them today. So one of the local guys offered to walk us to the local post office(an hour walk carrying chairs on our back s and even on our heads which the locals loved!)
We finally made it to the local post office where I think we were the only customers they guys had for the day - even the week. After bartering on exchange rates we managed to organise the postage, I felt at one stage half the town were in the post office amused by us! We then asked the guy how long to the parcels arrive - oh about 9 months or so.. so maybe for CHristmas.
Uncle Vinne (our post office helper) and a student of the local high school wanted us to visit his high school on the way back. The school began in 1999 and has only 2 classroomsfor Forms 1 & 2. The other two classrooms are half built and have been sitting idle for the last 2 years due to funding ceasing. IT is a sad situation as students when they finish Form 2 have to travel 10-20 kms to the next school and they want to stay in town. I think the school is a wonderful chance for a school in Australia to form an alliance/sister school to help them out. The two boys that showed us around were very well educated and disappointed that they couldnt continue on at their school. We met the Principal of the school on the way back to the campsite, and he was a great guy so I got their address and details to see what I could do when I get back to Australia. The people in this town are so friendly and are always wavign and saying hello. After dinner I arranged with my new mates in town to take us to a local shebeen(drinking hall) . A few of us from our group were up for the challenge and took us on an adventure to find the shebeen to get a taste of Malawian life. After enjoying a couple warm beers (remember no power in this town) we headed back to the campsite. Oh yeah the beers were 70 Kwatchas each but we were charged 75 K , 5K was to pay for the paraffin to have a little light while we drank our beers.
The guys that took us are so cool and Ive promised them that I will be back to this idyllic town in the near future. They have so much energy and are so funny- it was a great night out!
It was the end of another corker of a day, I have really fallen for this country. There is a real sense of optimism about the future which I love to see.
The next day we had another early start and said goodbye to Malawi and welcomed Tanzania.
10 hours later we arrived in our campsite and yeah it does rain in Africa and heavy!
IM now in Zanzibar and having a great time. Got heaps of great stories which I will share in my next blog.
I have 500+ photos so I am to put some up in the near future.
Post a comment and stay in touch.
I might even put on the video.. actually come to think of it probably not!
Troy

Friday, May 12, 2006

The tour has finally begun

Hello from Malawi

Well it has been some time since I have written on this blog..so I thought I would give you an update on whats been happening since I have started my trip.
Well, after arriving in Vic Falls and setting up camp we ventured off to Hwange National Park for a 3 day game drive. Hwange is a 3 hour drive away from Vic Falls and there were 6 of us that were taking part in this optional extra trip. We arrived in the afternoon and after setting up we went for an afternoon game drive through the park. In the space of an hour we had seen 3 of the big 5!!!. We arrived back at the camp and had a hearty African meal before having an early night as we had an early game drive the following morning.
So next morning we got up and went for a 2 hour game drive around the park and saw plenty of animals including a warthog mating. (apparently its mating season at the moment)
We had the afternoon to have a look around our accommodation and this place was a sad reminder of how Zimbabwe across all aspects of life has suffered the consquences of their presidents actions. ( A Zimbabwean girl I met on a boat cruise on the Zambezi told me her family has moved 8 times over the last few years after being booted off their farms.. like many whites up here this is their home and they are determined to make a life of it)
We did another game drive in the afternoon and the following morning before we headed back to Vic Falls. Hwange NP was fantastic, a beautiful part of the world as the guys at the bar were telling me tell your friends to come back to Zim as we need tourists to survive!! (Interesting no one will ever mention the current politics in a bad light for fear of retribution, all this in a so called democracy)
After arriving back at Vic Falls and exchanging more money.. current rate is $180 000 Zim for 1USD and rising.. I walked away with 5 million dollars.
That afternoon we had our first meeting with our tour to go through the program for the next 21 days. Walking up to the group, Adam and I felt like intruders on Big Brother as we were coming in halfway through the trip while the others had started in Cape Town. We met the group and they are seemed really cool, heaps of Aussies, English and other European nations. A few of us went out for dinner across the road for another average meal... then we went to the local bar for a few bevvies before we went to bed. Really looking forward to doing the tour with these guys.
The next morning we finally made it to Vic Falls and it was just amazing, I did go here last time but that was from the Zambian side.. the Zim side was so much better and photos just wont do it justice.. word of warning wear clothes that you dont mind getting wet cause you are staturated by the end of the walk. On the way back we had some lunch before we went back to the rest camp. That afternoon I was going to Think Well's house to meet his wife and children. (He was our guide on the tour and he invited me to his house and to have a traditional Zimbabwean meal) Unfortunately this is where I got into a little trouble. When we arrived I had a drink of a traditional African beer and unfortunately it didnt agree with my stomach. I stayed around for dinner to come but I could barely eat, I felt that sick... I felt bad too cause they may have thought that I didnt like the food! Thinkwell drove me back to the rest camp and I headed straight for the toilet and I spent the next 30 mins there by myself throwing up etc.. it was by far the worst case of food poisioning Ive had in my life.. it has taken me 3 days to properly get over it!! But hey, its Africa and these things happen.
Well the next morning we had an early start before we headed to Lake Kariba for a 3 day boat cruise (funny enough its owned by an Aussie guy from Shepparton) We arrived very late, partly due to the fact I was having trouble getting money out.. if you ever come to Africa bring USD that is all they are interested in!! We finally made it to the houseboat where we had some dinner and I sat around to properly get to know the other guys on the tour.. this of course is helped by a few drinking games.
Next morning we took the boat to a crocodile farm for a 4 hour tour. It was really fascinating an d great to get that close to a croc. The rest of the afternoon I just lazed on the boat before we had dinner and you guessed it.. more drinking games.. never ever came out for those out there that know it!!
The next 3 days we have been driving, driving and driving. Yesterday we did a 10 hour trip in the truck. We are now in Malawi in the capital Lilongwe where we are waiting for a couple of guys that are having visa problems. (That again is another issue, border crossings in Africa are very interesting!) We are now heading towards Lake Malawi where we spend the next 4 days and by all reports it supposed to be just amazing.
All in all, I feel like we are in the real Africa the further we travel up this superb continent. The scenery is postcard perfect and the spirit is alive and well - even in Zimbabwe.
I will write after we have experienced Lake Malawi. Got some exciting times ahead.

Troy

Wednesday, May 03, 2006

Leaving South Africa

Hello everyone from Zimbabwe

Well this morning I arrived in Zimbabwe after spending 3 weeks in South Africa.

I had an absolute ball in South Africa, I have forgotten how much I have missed that place. Since I last wrote I was in Mossel Bay, I spent another few days in Mossel Bay with my host family including my two African brothers.

I had an absolute ball in Mossel Bay, it was so great to go back to the school. Its just a pity that I have to leave them, the children are priceless and you can tell by their big smiles that they really appreciated me helping them out.
Those children come from basically nothing but there smiles are priceless and that school really needs someone who is willing to give a little more to help them along. I feel really bad that I just came for a short time as there is so much you do for those children. As I said previously, language was a barrier but its amazing how quick you pick up a language when you are forced to !!

Language was very difficult here, at school they spoke Xhosa and down the street they spoke Afrikaans!! But hey I have plenty of new words to my vocabulary!!

Over my last week at Mossel Bay, I spent time with my brothers and just doing a little sightseeing around the area. It is such a spectacular part of the world and I urge anyone that is thinking of coming to South Africa to do so - you wont be disappointed!
On Saturday I went to the Xhosa wedding, well I was supposed to!! My lift was late so I missed the traditional slaughering of the sheep! (Though I did taste it afterwards) It was still a great day and everyone like they have from day one has made me feel so welcome. I love to sit back and listen to them talk to me about their rich culture and customs that are still followed after hundreds of years. (It makes you realise how young Australia is!) They kept asking me about getting married but I said I cant afford the lobola (in Xhosa culture the husband to be pays the brides father a sum of cows according to what the daughter is worth - if she is educated than you can pay up to 15K AUD!!)

They kept telling me that I need to do the initiation which involves going away to the bush for a month and learning what it takes to be a man by the traditional elders. (Oh yeah you always get circumised!!) They cant have water for seven days during this period, its only after this that you are allowed to marry a woman in their culture. (My brothers did it last year and they said it was by far the hardest thing they have ever done!! - and I can imagine)

My host family were just terrific, they always treated me like I was one of their own.. the whole community has embraced me and I have no quarms about walking around. I actually felt part of their community, the umlungu (white man) of the Xhosa society.
I have noticed they are more than willing to talk about the past, and what life was like back then. My host father said he was going to go into exile just before apartheid ended. They loved to ask questions about Australia especially about aborgines.. tough one!!

It was sad to leave them and Ive said to them that I will try and get back for the 2010 World Cup.

I do urge anyone that is thinking of volunteering/working/assisting in Africa to seriously consider it because there is so much we can add to this continent and it pays you back more than you could ever imagine. If you want to get out of your comfort zone than serious look at - you wont be disappointed!!

After departing Mossel Bay I ended up back in Stellenbosch to stay with Louise and her family for one night before departing for Zim. Talk about great, they have been absolutely tremendous and I have felt very comfortable staying with them and learning what life is like for South Africa for an English speaking family. Rodney has an amazing knowlege of all kinds of facts so I have been constantly asking questions about South Africa as Im keen to find how life has changed since the new government.

On my last night I went to a going away party for the American teachers that have been over here for 6 weeks. It was at a host families beautiful home. It was great to see everyone again for one last time and I do feel like Ive been in this country for longer than 3 weeks. We experienced the local nightlife one last time before I left for J'Burg in the morning.



Since then I have arrived in Vic Falls and Zim has certainly changed a lot. Adam and I had some lunch and it cost us over $2million dollars. (and it wasnt even that good) I have always wanted to be a millionaire.. it is sad how this country has gone to ruins cause the people are so friendly and accommodating... the country has a real nice vibe to it!!

Getting here hasnt been without its fair share of dramas :

- plane an hour late
- took them an hour to pick me up from J'Burg airport last night
-got back and there was no more food, so myself and a couple of English people went cruising around J'Burg at 10pm in his rentacar trying to find food.. (there werent many cars on the street come to think of it! ) Dont worry Mum Im alright, it was an experience.
-They couldnt drive me to the airport, so they rang a taxi and he didnt have a meter. Just a flat (grossly outrageous) rate.. in the end I didnt care I just wanted to get to the airport
-Got to Vic Falls and my sleeping mat hasnt arrived.. got lost (possibiliy stolen) in transit)

But hey its all part of the experience of being in Africa.

We just came back from a sunset cruise on the Zambezi. Its great to finally see Adam especially after he hasnt had any $ for the last two days cause he couldnt get any USD$ here.. the poor bloke couldnt pay for his accommodation and has barely eaten in two days.. (but hey he looks great!! ha ha )

We head off for a three day Game park trip to Hwange National Park which Im really looking forward to.

I hope everyone is well and post a comment.

Troy